The evenings draw in, just a little. The light gets lower, more golden. And Ferrara, after the summer, fills up again.
September is our favourite month for starting over. The city comes back to life by day, bicycles take back the streets, and in the countryside it's harvest time. The September events in Ferrara follow the same rhythm: a market that brings Europe to the avenue, the grape harvest scenting the evenings, and at the end of the month the lagoons waking up with the eel. Here is what we like.
Europe on the avenue: the Mercato Europeo
From 18 to 20 September 2026 the Mercato Europeo, L'EuropAFerrara, returns to viale Alfonso I d'Este. Over a hundred exhibitors, stalls from half of Europe, free entry.
It's one of those things that puts us in a good mood: you stroll under the trees along the avenue, taste a cheese you didn't know, go home with something odd in your bag. You don't need a plan. Just a free afternoon and a bit of curiosity.
Harvest time
September, around here, is the month of the harvest. On the sands of Bosco Eliceo too, the DOC of the Ferrara coast, where the vines grow on soil that's almost pure sand, a stone's throw from the sea.
We love the harvest for what it promises. It's the hands of the winemakers we know, the crates full, the good tiredness at the end of the day. It's the part of wine you don't see in the glass, and it's the part we care about most. If you'd like to know more, we wrote here about the wines of the sands and the winemakers we like.
The lagoons wake up: the Sagra dell'Anguilla
On 26 September the season that suits us best begins. In Comacchio the Sagra dell'Anguilla, the eel festival, returns over three weekends: 26 and 27 September, 3 and 4 October, 10 and 11 October 2026.
The eel is the queen of the lagoons. It's born a very long way away, in the Sargasso Sea, and spends years in the waters of Comacchio before being caught with the lavorieri, the ancient fishing weirs of the lagoons. The fishing season runs from October to December: the festival, in effect, is an early greeting. The anguilla marinata tradizionale delle Valli di Comacchio, the traditional marinated eel, is a Presidio Slow Food, and it alone is worth the trip.
Our advice: a Sunday in Comacchio, on foot along the canals, and then dinner in the evening. The sea and the lagoons are our liquid landscape, and September is when they make themselves felt most.
On the plate and in the glass
In the kitchen it's a change of season. Summer still leaves something behind, autumn is knocking. Paolo follows what comes in, day by day, and often the best dishes are the off-menu specials, described at the table.
In the glass, with eel, there's a ready local answer: the Fortana frizzante from Bosco Eliceo. Acidity and bubbles cut through the richness, the savouriness of the wine calls to that of the lagoon. A house pairing, and still our favourite.
Frequently asked questions
When is the Mercato Europeo in Ferrara in 2026?
On 18, 19 and 20 September 2026, on viale Alfonso I d'Este. Entry is free.
When is the Sagra dell'Anguilla in Comacchio in 2026?
Over three weekends: 26 and 27 September, 3 and 4 October, 10 and 11 October 2026, in the centre of Comacchio.
Which wine goes with eel?
We like the Fortana frizzante from Bosco Eliceo: the bubbles and acidity balance the richness of the eel.
If you're passing by
September is the month when the city comes home, and we come home with it. If you're passing by for the market, for the sagra, or just for a cooler evening, the table is ready. We talk about what came in today, open a local bottle, and it feels good to be there.
We look forward to seeing you. No hurry.
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